Like pro athletes coming out of retirement, watch reissues can be hit, miss, or (more often) somewhere in the middle. Still, if you’re a fan, you’re nonetheless excited. Take Post-MLB Michael Jordan or Tom Brady part deux. Was what we got anywhere near as good as prior eras? No, but we were happy enough.
This isn’t the case with the elusive Zodiac Ref. 691’s recent return. I had the privilege of wearing the new Craft + Tailored x Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 691 for a week. Clearly, they weren’t content with just making us happy enough. Zodiac and C+T wanted to nail it.
In general, recreating a vintage experience with a new watch is trickier than simply recreating the visuals. After all, completely avoiding modern materials can seem like a cop-out (really? That plastic dial protector is to recreate the true experience of the original watch?). Somehow, the 691 doesn’t fall into any of these traps.
Here’s how and why.
What’s Old is New Again: Some Background on the 691
Ever the dive watch pioneers, Zodiac launched the original Ref. 691 in 1953. Cameron Barr, founder of Craft + Tailored, wanted to recreate the watch faithfully. As such, it certainly has a charming heirloom-esque aesthetic. In my opinion, this means you can wear it with suits or jeans—and I definitely did.
There are two versions. The black dial variant is limited to 400 examples, and the white dial variant is limited to 100 and exclusively available via Craft + Tailored. This version, which is the one I wore, features a minimal countdown bezel and beautiful gold indices and hands. It’s an athletic tool watch, but the combination of reasonable sizing, the glisten of the applications, and, naturally, the vintage styling add class and sophistication.
By bringing back an old design with select modern upgrades, Zodiac and C+T have effectively brought something to the market that was never there. But don’t worry, the nostalgia factor isn’t compromised.
Specs: Truly Engaging Form and Function
Zodiac and C+T wanted to make sure the new 691 wore and felt like a vintage watch. However, they also wanted it to be able to stand up to the day-to-day of modern life. That being the case, the following specs make perfect sense:
- 37mm stainless steel case
- 200m water resistance
- Sapphire crystal
- Manual-wind movement
- 40-hour power reserve
The 37-millimeter case is true to the original, while the 200-meter water resistance is not. I love this—you may as well be wearing the 1953 version (good luck finding it), but you don’t have to worry if you get caught out in the rain. I actually did end up having to take a five-block walk with some moderate showers, and the 691, of course, came out of it alive.
Instead of a modern Zodiac elapsed-time bezel, this diver is outfitted with a crisp countdown bezel. I very much enjoyed playing with this bezel. It did a lot more for my busy hands than any stress ball or fidget spinner has.
I already mentioned how the dial design makes this watch quite versatile. However, its details also add to its engagement factor as well as its legibility. I can watch that cut-out secondhand sweep past the impeccably outlined gold indices for hours. In fact, I may have (it was during a particularly long work meeting). The textured shine framing the hands and indices adds visual intrigue while also making the dial easy to read at a glance.
Dial protectors are a good litmus test for determining a watch construction’s value. Depending on what other functions are available, I’m often wary of an over-$500 modern watch without a sapphire crystal. Fortunately, this Super Sea Wolf does indeed boast a scratch-resistant sapphire dial protector. Even more, the crystal is domed, so it doesn’t take away from the charming old-fashioned aesthetic. It simply recreates it with more practical materials.
The Manual Winding Factor
Of all the engaging qualities this deceivingly simple timepiece boasts, my favorite is its manual-winding movement. I believe that manual-wind calibers allow you to get intimate with your watch. That’s why the Timex Marlin is one of my favorite budget pieces and why I have so much respect for Omega for using the 3861 Chronometer on modern Speedmasters.
We wear watches for style and stories, but there’s also the EDC side of it all. I want my watch to feel like a tool, like a piece of gear that I can physically operate. I often found myself taking the 691 off of my wrist to wind it, even if it was already wound. And from a style perspective, the only thing cooler-looking than when a guy bends his elbow to check the time on his wrist (instead of pulling out his phone) is when he takes his watch off to wind it. At least, I certainly felt cool constantly winding this Super Sea Wolf.
The caliber is a new movement, the STP 1-21M. It’s really just a manual version of the STP 1-21, which Zodiac uses on its other divers. The movements are based on ETA 2824, cinching that Swiss-made moniker. I found it to be reliable and precise enough, though I also found myself constantly hoping the 40-hour power reserve would run out faster so I could wind the watch again.
The easy-to-use crown is signed, unlike the dial. The original 691 didn’t have the Sea Wolf sign on its dial, either.
Here’s another fun tidbit. I’ve never held an original 1953 Zodiac 691, but if you look at old ads for it, you’ll notice it’s described as being self-winding. So, to be functionally accurate, these 691 Reissues would technically have to be automatics. However, Barr brilliantly decided that wouldn’t honor a true vintage experience overall. I agree with him, and I’m glad they went in this direction.
The manual-winding movement not only adds to the EDC element, but the stories and relationship elements. Not to wax poetic, but there’s something about winding a vintage-looking timepiece that almost makes me feel more connected to the time the watch came out.
The Bracelets
Finally, each colorway comes with a slightly different bracelet. The white version I wore features a three-link stainless steel bracelet. It’s classic in construction, though it tapers towards the clasp, giving it a touch of elegance. It’s fitted to the Super Sea Wolf’s 18-millimeter lugs and has quick-release spring bars integrated.
The black version has a stainless steel rivet bracelet composed of rivet-style links. These are more common on actual old watches.
Both have a folding butterfly clasp with a push-button release and an extension system. I like the look of these kinds of clasps because they hide the mechanics of it all. In my opinion, it makes for a cleaner, more stylish look.
An Attainable Luxury EDC Watch with Class
Overall, I give the Craft + Tailored x Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 691 an A+. I was sad when I had to return the loan. I also want to give kudos to the team at Zodiac and Craft + Tailored for the sub-$2,000 price point. Considering how limited it is, they could’ve easily played the collectibility card. Instead, it’s in line with their modern divers. This makes it a compelling value proposition.
The 691 is cleverly engaging yet adaptable from a style perspective, making it both an EDC piece and a handsome accessory. It’s also an instant family heirloom, which makes the manual-winding movement more special. Think about it. When you pass this watch on to your son (or daughter—the sizing is pretty unisex), he or she will have to wind it just like you have to, meaning they’ll have the exact same relationship to it as you did. That’s pretty cool.
Price: $1,695
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